I then weathered the hell out of them with Rhinox Hide on a sponge, hitting both the shoulder pads and the white armor, concentrating on wear areas – knees, hands, and elbows mainly. Carefully edge highlight the red with Scalecolor SC-37 Antares Red. I even highlight into some of the shaded areas to add a bit of definition. Guilliman Blue in the runic design (as this color is no longer available, you could make a custom glaze using a 2:1 mix of Lahmian Medium and any blue)

The Wild Rider Red acrylic paint from Citadel Colour is a premium color that’s ideal for painting miniatures. The base coat is a deep, rich crimson with a matte texture that offers good coverage. To ensure that the color is stable and long-lasting, the pigments used in the paint are carefully chosen. Wild Rider Red is a fantastic base color for any beginner’s palette since it offers a stable foundation for layering and highlighting. For factions who utilize red as part of their color scheme, it can be used as an alternative to a primary red. What armies to paint with Wild Rider Red I’m also highlighting the reds at this stage, doing blends of Khorne Red with Mephiston Red. The White parts get washed with Apothecary White, which we’ll then revisit, shading in the spots in-between feathers with Nuln Oil and doing some extra highlights with Reaper Pure White. At this stage I’m doing more red highlight as well, doing edge highlights on the red with Wazdakka Red. I also cover the eyes, doing them in a gemstone style using Warpstone Glow shaded with Coelia Greenshade and Nuln Oil and highlight with a spot of Moot Green. The unit was undercoated with White Scar Spray before being given an all over wash with Skeleton Horde which was highlighted with Flayed One Flesh. Softer, fleshier, bits between joints and the tentacles were then painted in Fireslayer Flesh Contrast paint and highlighted with Jokaero Orange . Bony carapaces, spikey bits, teeth and blades were first painted with Garaghak’s Sewer and then raised up with Catachan Flesh before a final highlight of Mournfang Brown . Lastly the compound eyes were painted with Baal Red Contrast paint, washed with Agrax Earthshade and then given a subtle dash of ‘Ardcoat gloss varnish to make them glisten.Color Space Conversions Decimal 15347496 Binary 11101010, 00101111, 00101000 Hexadecimal #ea2f28 LRV ≈ 19.7% Closest short hex #e22 ΔE = 1.002 RGB rgb(234, 47, 40) RGBA rgba(234, 47, 40, 1.0) rg chromaticity r: 0.729, g: 0.146, b: 0.125 RYB red: 91.765%, yellow: 18.534%, blue: 15.686% Android / android.graphics.Color -1429720 / 0xffea2f28 HSL hsl(2, 82%, 54%) HSLA hsla(2, 82%, 54%, 1.0) HSV / HSB hue: 2° (2.165), saturation: 83% (0.829), value: 92% (0.918) HSP hue: 2.165, saturation: 82.906%, perceived brightness: 52.395% HSL uv (HUSL) H: 12.846, S: 88.074, L: 51.479 Cubehelix H: -6.080, S: 1.272, L: 0.401 TSL T: 3.911, S: 0.587, L: 0.400 CMYK cyan: 0% (0.000), magenta: 80% (0.799), yellow: 83% (0.829), key: 8% (0.082) CMY cyan: 8% (0.082), magenta: 82% (0.816), yellow: 84% (0.843) XYZ X: 35.336, Y: 19.684, Z: 3.946 xyY x: 0.599, y: 0.334, Y: 19.684 CIELab L: 51.479, a: 68.668, b: 50.157 CIELuv L: 51.479, u: 143.823, v: 32.798 CIELCH / LCHab L: 51.479, C: 85.036, H: 36.145 CIELUV / LCHuv L: 51.479, C: 147.515, H: 12.846 Hunter-Lab L: 44.367, a: 64.521, b: 25.784 CIECAM02 J: 44.799, C: 91.232, h: 29.372, Q: 131.869, M: 79.781, s: 77.782, H: 11.757 OSA-UCS lightness: -9.750, jaune: 6.072, green: -13.027 LMS L: 33.710, M: 8.576, S: 4.254 YCbCr Y: 103.746, Cb: 97.251, Cr: 210.590 YCoCg Y: 92.000, Cg: -45.000, Co: 107.000 YDbDr Y: 102.115, Db: -93.481, Dr: -250.790 YPbPr Y: 86.327, Pb: -25.005, Pr: 93.822 xvYCC Y: 90.140, Cb: 106.035, Cr: 210.416 YIQ Y: 102.115, I: 113.648, Q: 37.364 YUV Y: 102.115, U: -30.565, V: 115.705 Okhsl h: 28.313, s: 0.954, l: 0.545 Okhsv h: 28.313. s: 0.921, v: 0.922 Okhwb h: 28.313, w: 0.073, b: 0.078 Oklab l: 0.608, a: 0.195, b: 0.105 Oklch l: 0.608, c: 0.222, h: 28.313 Munsell Color System 7.5R 5/16 ΔE = 2.818 Brand Color Verizon ΔE = 1.519 Random Colors If you’re looking for advice on how to paint Angron, the World Eaters’ Daemon primarch, you can find that article here.

Shade red armour Flesh Tearer Contrast thinned 3:1. Here we want to shade from the recesses towards the brightest spots so we keep the saturation at its highest where light hits the model. You’ll need to give it 3 or so passes, just keep going if it looks pink and remember to pause to let the model dry if you’re unsure if it needs another layer. Then very carefully apply a 50:50 mix of Nihilakh Oxide and Lahmian Medium to the recesses of any brass or copper areas to create a verdigris effect. Reikland Fleshshade wash all over the skin, including the mouth where we’ll just leave that shading as is The great thing about this scheme is that if I need to paint a lot of models fast, as you often do with Tyranids, then they look great and ‘Battle Ready’ at just the Contrast paint stage and I can add the highlights later.Because I had painted a burgundy carapace, I wanted the skin to contrast with it, and pull from colours that matched the pelagic influences on some of the new miniatures. I started with Celestra Grey , and glazed down with colours like Fenrisian Grey and The Fang , and shaded the darkest areas with Druchii Violet , to keep everything suitably menacing. Will: Custom Splinter Fleet Gloss varnish the whole thing. We’re going to work on this at the same time as the reds for a moment, so we’re doing steps 6-9 to apply decals and a pinwash. Red highlights are perceived as different colors more easily than others. You can add white but then the highlights are "pink", or you can add yellow, but then they read as "orange". When we paint blue, green, yellow armor, we tend to just process those colors' highlights as "light blue" or "light green". This is sort of arbitrary and a byproduct of our color naming conventions, but I think it has an impact on how we perceive color. That means that you need to highlight with a much more careful and precise hand than other colors, because when the pink or orange stray too far from extreme edges, you negate the sense of "red". That just doesn't seem to be the case with other colors. This highlighting problem leads a lot of people to try to get away with not adding enough highlights, going for a more flat red "realistic" look, but most of the time that approach doesn't look good from more than about a forearm's length away, and doesn't photograph very well either. I’m not going to write how I do my lenses as I’m using a method from Mighty Brush’s how to paint Blood Angels guide. These are wonderfully laid out tomes that go into detail on many of the techniques I’ve used here and I can’t recommend them strongly enough. You can also use Goonhammer’s tutorials from How to Paint Space Marines, or How to Paint Lenses, gemstones, and vials. Blood spatter The hexadecimal color code #ea2f28 is a shade of red. In the RGB color model #ea2f28 is comprised of 91.76% red, 18.43% green and 15.69% blue. In the HSL color space #ea2f28 has a hue of 2° (degrees), 82% saturation and 54% lightness. This color has an approximate wavelength of 609.74 nm.

I don't actually think the exact paints/washes you use matter as much as simply attending to those issues. I've used Coelia Greenshade in the crevices and that works pretty well, but lately I've been just using carrowburg crimson because it's easier, although it doesn't get the same dark shade in the grooves. Do two steps of edge highlighting – first with Vallejo Model Color Dark Grey, then with Dark Blue Grey. In our How to Paint Everything series we look at how to paint well, everything, with different techniques and approaches from different painters. In this article we’re looking at how to paint the blood-crazed warriors of the XII legion, the World Eaters.

The Khorne Daemons: The Khorne Daemons are a faction of Chaos Daemons known for their association with violence and bloodshed. Wild Rider Red can be used to paint the details of their armor and weapons, such as the blood and gore on their weapons.

I start with Mephiston base spray, and then immediately HEAVILY cover the whole model with carrowburg crimson, like a ton, and then I do a "wet" dry brush of mephiston again over the majority of the flat spaces. I then clean up and re-articulate any sunken parts with precise use of carrowburg that might have gotten hit by the dry brush. I then do the same thing with red sunz Scarlett. I then do a light pink dry brush and clean up anything not on an extreme edge, then use bloodletter glaze to tie things together where they need it. I then do a careful line highlight with a light pink, and again carefully make sure to modulate the highlights with bloodletter. The remaining miniatures from the box were painted up to match my existing Tyranid force. I have quite a large army of these guys already, as well as a subservient Genestealer Cult, so I’ll be dropping these straight into that collection – which actually featured in the Crusade section of the previous Tyranids codex. The Blood Angels Space Marines: The Blood Angels are a chapter of Space Marines known for their red color scheme. Wild Rider Red is a great choice for painting the armor of this chapter, it matches their official red color and makes it easy to achieve a consistent look across all your miniatures. The white armor got primed with Stynylrez Grey, and an initial coat of Vallejo Model Air White Grey was applied. I built up highlights with Vallejo Model Air Insignia White and Vallejo Model Air White (using the final pure white only very sparingly). If I was doing these again I’d probably use ProAcryl Titanium White instead. It’s not a different color, but it’s the nicest white I’ve used and I need to sing its praises everywhere. I hit them all with a Satin Varnish at this point – you can make satin by mixing gloss and matte roughly 50:50.The other pitfall is not enough shading. I think having extremely hard shadows in the recesses of red armor is essential for preserving detail at a distance, because you can't rely on just highlighting for the reasons discussed above.